Croatia – Days 7 / 8 – In the Land of Gladiators

Photo above of the Pula Coliseum.

The complicated departure from Venice was not nearly as complicated as the entry.

Armed with the knowledge and experience of locals, we retraced our steps to Ca D’Oro, boarded the water bus, disembarked at Piazza Roma, hopped on the People Mover tram, and loaded up the Budget Eurovan in less time than anticipated. One funny thing about the water bus before we leave Venice: The vessel was full of tourists with suitcases and bags. For some reason, the deckhand on the boat decided Molli and her luggage was a problem. He barked at her to move her bags out of the walkway. She moved and he barked more. She bumped into foreigners and he still gave her the business. She was in the back section of the boat and he was ignoring others’ luggage that could have easily tied him up like a wrestling move that snaps the ankle. That didn’t matter. Molli was apparently his new problem that he was going to get straight. Lucky for him we only had five stops on the canal or she might have introduced him to the Venetian fishes because she was getting a little fed up.

Next up: Croatia. First stop was Rovinj. The scenery has a Tuscan look to it with olive groves and grape vineyards. The autostrade was an easy connection from northeast Italy to northwest Croatia. We stayed in a family house that can hold about eight other groups, plus the owners. Silvana Cvek, who was our host, was extremely friendly and helpful during our time in Rovinj. She lives on the bottom floor of a three-story house along with her husband, two boys and in-laws. Our place was great – two bedrooms, plus sleeper sofa, kitchen, and two balconies.

Soon after we arrived, we got some pasta at a place within walking distance. As dusk began to fall, we walked towards the water and near the pedestrian area of Rovinj. Rovinj is a relaxed mixture of European and Mediterranean and there is an island feel to it without the salty sea air. During this time of the year, there are lots of people on holiday. So, the atmosphere has a feel of easiness. The evenings take on a peacefulness that encourages one to stay out and enjoy the night with others, but not in a party sort of way. It is more contentment – the way a vacation should be. Without agenda or feeling rushed. Working our way to the pedestrian area, we passed shops – not as nearly as gaudy as Venice – and found the harbor. It became evident that people gathered along the concrete jetty to watch the sunset. So, when in Rovinj…

Before the sun went down, the kids found a small inlet to the water and crawled over some rocks to get their first feel of the Adriatic. A young woman was there with her Golden Retriever, Tara, and the kids ended up throwing a stick to her a couple dozen times. Tara had to finally be dragged out of the water to go home.

After sunset, we walked back to the Cvek apartment with breakfast for the next day in hand.

Day 8 started after TEN HOURS OF SLEEP for Molli and me! Breakfast in the apartment fueled us for a day in Pula (only about 25 km away). The reason for this day trip was because of the Pula Coliseum. This is the 6th largest surviving Roman architecture coliseum and all three levels are completely intact. We took an audio tour in the arena and learned that it was constructed in the 1st century and housed many games – both of animals battles, those with gladiators and Christian martyrs. It was an odd sensation sitting in the amphitheater seats knowing that just a few feet in front of us, both man and beast fought for survival and in most cases, just for the pleasure of others. The coliseum had been threatened many times with destruction. Once, there had been a decree by the Venetians to dismantle the coliseum stone by stone and rebuild it in Venice. Fortunately for us, that decree went unfulfilled.

The coliseum was not very crowded other than the roadies who were preparing a stage and lights for a concert the following evening. There were a few other visitors and we got our kicks watching them take photos. One couple, maybe in their mid 30s, in particular seemed to be following our path through the different points of interest in the arena. But the main difference between our tour and theirs is what we called their “kitty kat” poses. The guy would suggest poses for his wife/girlfriend and she would comply. I think she knew we were watching because she would steal a glance in our direction as if she were embarrassed by it all. But the guy didn’t care and he was oblivious to anyone else, pretending to be a photographer to the stars. I kept waiting for him to yell, “Work with me, People!” After he snapped photos of her, she would take pictures of him. There was nothing illicit about their photos. More than anything it was hilarious to watch them get into contorted poses, unaware of their surroundings. Gladiator clashes in the coliseum ended by decree in the 5th century, but if Caesar had been around to witness this photo shoot, he might have opened up the lion cage one more time.

Leaving the coliseum, the drive back to Rovinj was brief but picturesque. We began joking that we would soon be featured on a “House Hunters International” episode searching for a place to live in Croatia.

Once back in Rovinj, we visited their old town area, which is heavily populated with artist shops. This particular section of town has a very different architectual look to it – very heavy Italian influence. It almost looked a bit like Venice without the water. Molli described it as maybe the prettiest old town she has ever seen. It is contained on a round extension of land that looks like it could be an island. The area is sloped on all sides with its bell tower dominating its skyline. Once at the top, we surveyed the church and then ascended the very narrow, old wooden steps leading to the top of the bell tower. These were the type of stairs that one can see though – all the way to the ground. So, with about eight floors to ascend in wrapping, quarter sections, each step was one of faith. It was appropriate that we began the ascent inside the church.

An outstanding 360 degree view was our reward for the effort. So, we stayed up there for a while, partially to take it all in and also to postpone the looming descent filmed by Tate along with the bell ringing. For Tate’s video, click here.

Fish is a mainstay of the Croatian diet, so for dinner we sat near the water and shared a couple of enormous fish platters, capped off with the daily requirement of gelato.

It’s a good thing we have been walking most places because the amount of gelato, pastries, pizzas and pasta we have consumed would have probably resulted in the air lines charging us for extra baggage on our way home.

We look forward to southern Croatia, but if we had only seen this northern region called Istria we would have been content. No longer do we wonder if we will return, only when.